This will be a somewhat confusing post as the Drum is not sure where it is going, let alone the poor reader. Timdog recently posted this
“Malinowski discovered to his amazement that the white people who had been living on these islands for decades not only lived far away from the local villages, but what they said about the native population was a load of nonsense, nothing but false, absurd stereotypes. In short, the white man in the tropics is the worst, least reliable source of information about local peoples and cultures…”
A modicum of research proved that Malinowski was a very interesting guy, who lived a very interesting and challenging life. Certainly he lived at the tail end of the White Raj dream/nightmare while it was still twitching in its death throes. It could be said not much has changed since then.
The vast majority of Expatriates still live a life apart from the local population employing both virtual and/or literal walls to protect their bubble of “selfness”. At one extreme, some expatriates view a posting to Indonesia as a hardship posting, living behind walled communities and the company covering every conceivable expense to ensure limited separation anxiety from their home culture. On the other hand, we have the other variety of Expatriates who lose themselves into the distant Kampungs and attempt for reasons of their own to become at “one with the tribe”. In between we have any and all variations ranging from the amusing Batik wearer on important days and the Live, Love, Pray parodies infesting the isle of Bali.
A significant but oft overlook group of Expatriates is those who have married into the local community, raise families and are rarely seen in the atypical expatriate haunts. However by far the most curious group is the one that claims ties to the local community by virtue of time in country and yet struggle with grasping even the most basic levels of the Language, cultural mores or religion of the region in which they find themselves.
All of these various groups will have their spokesmen/woman who claim to understand and grasp the complexities of Indonesian culture. A patently absurd claim of knowledge in the vast majority of cases which becomes even more absurd when one considers the source of a lot of the information. Once again Malinowski:
“Yet it must be remembered that what appears to us an extensive, complicated, and yet well ordered institution is the outcome of so many doings and pursuits, who have no laws or aims or charters definitely laid down. They have no knowledge of the total outline of any of their social structure. They know their own motives, know the purpose of individual actions and the rules which apply to them, but how, out of these, the whole collective institution shapes, this is beyond their mental range. Not even the most intelligent native has any clear idea of the Kula as a big, organised social construction, still less of its sociological function and implications….The integration of all the details observed, the achievement of a sociological synthesis of all the various, relevant symptoms, is the task of the Ethnographer…the Ethnographer has to construct the picture of the big institution, very much as the physicist constructs his theory from the experimental data, which always have been within reach of everybody, but needed a consistent interpretation.”
In a more modern context, if your sum total of interaction with the local populace is the bar girls and hawkers of Jalan Jaksa then you are unlikely to any better understanding of the complexities (although perhaps some more titillating stories) of Indonesia than the latest tourist arriving with the KLM in-flight magazine. The reality is the saucy young bar wench or the affable barman holds a very limited outlook of the whole and that is invariably tainted by the desire to tell you what you want wish to hear anyway. On the other end of the scale, the expatriate experience coming from being deeply immersed in the Christian Village deep in the wilds of West Timor has about as much relevance in Jakarta as an FPI or RWDP Hardliner to rational discourse.
This inability to articulate the intangible is not unique, witness the issues Australia had when it attempted to quantify “What it means to be Australian” test for new immigrants. .
The wide ranging cultural, political and ethnic make-up of Indonesia frustrates the very human desire to put people and cultures into “boxes” of our own perception and experience. The reverse is also true with Expatriates largely being grouped together by Indonesians into a largely incorrect construct to meet prevailing prejudices and perceptions. For classic examples of this hive mind (Expatriate and Indonesian)approach you need go no further than the Jurassic Park sized thread “Dating Indonesian Girls” a social experiment in and of itself (the thread not the dating 
).
What does all this mean, probably not much except to say that in the vast majority of cases the old saying holds true “believe nothing of what you hear and only half of what you see.”
Just for fun some Expatriate Constructs:
1. Highly paid, City based Resource Expatriate (Tends to be older 45 plus, lives in protected walled Isolation and his/her interaction with local community is limited to his driver and security staff. Limited Tenure in country and common refrain “this is not the way we do it at home”)
2. Lost souls and KITAS jumpers (Also tend to be older, came to Indonesia years ago to be English Teachers for a year and life has caught up with them. No longer able to fit in back home or afford to change and hover precariously on the fringes of Indonesian Society. Most commonly found in the cheaper bars around town preaching their version of Indonesia to the like minded)
3. Highly Paid Contract Workers (30-45, these people don’t really care that much about the culture, the whys or wherefores. Here to have a good time and not ashamed to show it. Much to the delight and disgust of many)
4. The Backpacker (No money, no direction but tend to wander across the islands at leisure annoying no one, most common refrain “ada losman?”)
5. The Sanctimonious (Tends to be older, has solid income but connected into the local community long term. Tends to live in the suburbs and villages writing inane blogs to pass the time).
6. The Sadder (Married the bargirl and found you can take the girl from the bar but not the bar from the girl, tends to sit in the darker corners nursing a beer until the next tap for money).
7. The Expat Wives club (a truly scary construct of air kisses and endless morning teas all six previous constructs dread the arrival of the Club).
8. The Researcher, (When drawn from his dusty tomes of yesteryear of various often illegal sources, can be spotted casting a horn rimmed and jaundiced eye over the rest of us, frequently confusing research with experience. Not normally found within the other groups as who wishes to have their (mal)adventures recorded for later discourse.
I reckon you belong to The Sanctimonious? They seem the only amiable group of expats you described above
Thanks Deta, I am flattered
. Actually it was all in fun but I am sure I will get a couple of bites 
.
To be honest all the groups and sub-groups within are generally nice people (with some notable exceptions) all just looking for different things at different stages of their lives. I have been known to travel between the groups depending on the situation.
Although you are probably right, I do tend to garner the holier than thou attitude when writing, again purely to provoke.
XXXXXX certainly belongs to sanctimonious group of expats you describe above.
Sorry Yaser, I edited the name out, couple of reasons besides being nicem person in question does not deserve the oxygen.
I had a slight sinking feeling when I got to #2, oh gawd is that me?, but pretty sure I could fit in back home and am not on the ‘fringes’ here although this bit had me plunging into self doubt again:
I don’t preach about Indonesia to anyone, although my drinking companion is known to….not sure if the Lido bar counts as a ‘cheap’ bar, although their happy hour is a good deal….; if said drinking companion is up for it, and he increasingly isn’t, we head to Desperados, which is definitely not a cheap bar though.
Does 2 + 4 equal 6? Sh*t, I hope not…
Ok, actually, 2 doesn’t fit at all really (on any number of counts), so let’s try 2 minus 1, then + 4… so that equals 5… ah, maybe, but where’s the “solid income”?…
Can I have a special box all of my own please Oigal?
David – Desperados? Shudder… I’m not quite sure why I make such a concerted effort not to go to Lido more than once a year… or maybe I do, on reflection…
Lately people keep trying to get me to go to Matchbox. I went. Full of weird looking English teachers, many of who seem to be about 12 years old. Not in a hurry to go back.
I have a connection at this ridiculous newish place on Kertajaya too. Very noisy. Lots of mirrors. Not in a hurry to go back to that one either.
Colors, or a dirty dangdut bar, or – best of all – sleep seem much better options to me.
Oigal, I like this post very much. I will reply with something coherent later, but I’ve just spent several hours trying to read the handwriting of Thomas Stamford Raffles, discussing land reforms in 19th Century Java, and my eyes and my thoughts have gone all wonky…
Mmmm… Timdog based on some of the comments, I may have to put some more thought into the Expat Boxes..boxes within boxes if you will.. a vertiable Chinese puzzle of Expat boxes (mmm oxymoron?). Seriously, It was a quick knockout, didn’t really know how it would read but thanks for the lead in
.. Colours you say?? Not bad but crowded..Have not done matchbox thanks for the tip..Some nice hidden places around (you know the name of the joint at the wharf??).
I was telling David earlier, I am fortunate to have friend who does some singing around town in some of the smaller joints around the place which has proved a real bonus, Surabuya has some hidden gems in more ways than one.
As for weird looking English Teachers…Is there another kind?
Look forward to your comments…coherent or otherwise…
I snuck a box in for you Timdog
..Of course, I did mean the experience and research thing in a nice way.. when does Research stop being research and start being an experience? Or that famous observers paradox, the moment you observe something you cease to be an observer but become a participant.
Trying hard to remember but cannot the name of the dark and exotic two story club that is actually inside the wharf security area, yet to see another expat there but great club, great music if strange drinks served.
As for the Expat boxes, all a bit of fun we all morph between groups at times I think except for the bitter and twisted ones locked into their own isolated world, which makes you wonder why they stay. I did the back packer thing but too used to the finer things in life now
. Possibly labouring a point, even down in harbour did not feel threatened or overly concerned, not sure I would do the same in the west.
As for on the fringes, does any expat really proceed beyond that? One step forward, two back…
Carrying on a PM conversation… Oigal Lido is a pub right next doorish to the Shang, you know where the HSBC is, in that rather shady complex which rumour has it is owned by the Marinir, hence why the police tend to stay out of it (although they will often make a nuisance of themselves right outside it late at night…). It’s the Hash House pub in Surabaya, although you won’t usually won’t find many Harriers or whatever they’re called in there, you won’t find many people at all in there most nights, but it has er atmosphere, I was told it was founded by a German hunchback who married a Dolly girl, he’s long gone but the place is still done up as a sort of European pub, it has charm and I’ve some happy memories from there… which brings me to Colors as Timdog mentioned, my favourite place in the ‘old days’, it’s gone up market a bit now, they don’t let in the young boys who never buy a drink all night anymore, it’s ‘not the same’ for me anymore but that’s where I developed a liking for Indonesian rock/pop music, when they play western music there (oh god santana) I just switch off.
Ah thanks David, As I said Surabuya is not my “home” town as such and I am normally at the mercy of others to where I may end up. To that end, I have found it only kills the mystery to actually ask “where are we now” sometimes it is better to just accept your fate n karma for the evening. I will make a point of having a drink at the Lido now on the way to poke sticks at wierd looking english teachers . I do love these old rumours and myths (a german hunchback indeed, he wasn’t the one with no arms who used to ring the town bell by running at the bell and bashing his head on the clanger was he. Rumour has it when he collapsed and died in the street, the police came and asked the gathered crown if anyne knew his name at which time someone said “dunno his name but his face rings a bell”).
Enjoyed the article (and must find out more on Malinowski).
I’m one of the The Sanctimonious… but yes we’ve all floated a little between boxes.
Didn’t see The Entrepreneur in his / her various guises from out-and-out independent businessperson through bore, con artist and wide boy. Worth a number 9?
Ah Yes Sean, It would appear in my haste I have created a bit of task and willhave to go back a review some of the boxes..We have a number of expats who wish to jump into a new team
I think we can all add to this list; and even amalgamate some of the stereotypes:
The oil and gas boys in kemang who keep telling us that “Jakarta is the best kept secret in Asia” and are supporting at least five ladies and their families; which they say is doing their bit to help the country and the poor.
The Jaksa bule grizzlies who have completely lost it and would be turpentine addicted street bums in their once native lands; but can still find jobs as teachers after years of being barely functioning alcoholics.
The once high flying contract workers who married a local lass and had to stay when their contract ended and then when they failed at getting a job in removals or as a financial services pest; they became English teachers and miserably prop up bars in blok m.
The backpacker who fatally stayed on in Jaksa because he got laid every night; gets a a local family within a year and is living in a kampung on 7 million rupes a month teaching at English first.
The old wrinklies; who arrived in Indonesia after retirement and don’t have to work anymore and get to be young again in blok m; “pensions go a long way out here” they smile as they wolf down their Viagra.
The middle aged man who comes to Indonesia fleeing a messy divorce in the west; only to start a new family at 55 with a local girl who made him smile again and is doing all of the above at 75 to survive. Too stressed and ill to miserably prop up bars.
The expat wife who realises that she’s about to lose her husband within days of arriving in the country; and constantly moans that “these Indonesian girls are just after money” to their fellow expat wives; who all nod in bitter agreement while their husbands are out late again at yet another “work” do.
Any more to add to this very cynical list?
Indeed Jake, very cynical..
Thats a very jaded view of the world isn’t it? While a fair bit of truth to most, I think most also have their upsides as well..
Very enjoyable, I was a number 3 originally, now I’m very definitely one of the sanctimonious.
Not quite sure where I fit in, came here in my 30s with my Indonesian wife and kid after teaching university elsewhere in Asia and jumped ships career-wise. Following a 6-month stint in NGO-land I have a KITAS and do business consultancy and political risk for companies mostly in the extractive industries field. Have no intention of going home as long as the work is here but would consider Singapore, Thailand, Malaysia or Hong Kong in the future. Live and work in South Jakarta and drink there too for the most part. Never venture to Jaksa and my mates are in a variety of industries and businesses over here. Anyone venture to put me in a category? Please just don’t call me Ross McKay!
hi
I know a number of Indonesian foreign graduates who lived 4 to 6 years in the US, spent their time in a well closely knit Indonesian groupies, went only to places popular among other Indonesians, had only one or two local friends, barely could speak English properly, yet when returning to Jakarta, these very same people professed expert level over the American culture. They also see themselves better and above than Indonesian natives. When they speak, it’s a regurgitated mix-mash of English and Indonesian – what I call Kampunglish (kampungan english). A form of speech often used to denote higher status in Indonesian society when in reality that type of speech is relegated to the lowest uneducated class in the US.
I guess they can be consigned to the Expat-Wannabess group.
Seriously though, in defense of foreign residents/workers here, if this blog and many others in this site were translated into Bahasa, it would offer great educational benefits to many Indonesians as it is rich with cultural insights to which Indonesians may well not be aware of themselves.
I think that one moves through stages as one progresses through the culture shock. I’m sure if you looked you could find every (stereo)type of expat on my street in Bali. Compared to other places I have lived though Indonesia is a pretty easy expat gig. Try Bangladesh or Yemen for example – this place is a paradise by comparison.
One further catagory for you – the bule who comes over and truly believes that he is a part of things, zero languange skill but considers himself fluent because he once managed to order in pizza hut. The odd one takes the muslim conversion bit just a bit too far and makes sarky comments about boozing and Christmas.
Indeed, Mangler nothing worse than the over zealous convert they are like bloody reformed smokers and just as annoying!
Hi Tania,
Despite the self deluding aspirations of some Bule expounding thier views down Jalan Jaksa, it always amazes me why ‘Expat” and what they do (or not do) in Indonesia tends to attract so much attention in some quarters considering the miniscle part of the population they represent.
On the other hand, the Expat wannabess does that include the sad people from various provinces who for some reason feel the need to emulate the dominant Javanese culture at the expense of their own.
^Hahaha….yes I think it’d be awesome for bules to wear batik, have Indonesian name, play gamelan and savor rendang/tehbotol because Indonesians has already taken up western names, clothes, music, fast foods and whatnot.
Ah you didn’t mention about the diplomats, as far as I know they have genuine interests to the country and try as they could to interact with the locals.
Hi Ecky,
Yes indeed, and a lot of embassy staff are doing many mnay things for the good of the nation that generally go unnoticed by the general populace.
Yet again on this topic I have been exposed as somewhat flippant and lacking indetail… I am just awaiting a final berating by Timdog and I guess I will have to do EIAB REDUX to regain a modicum of ……………….
If you wish to add diplomats, pls consider United Nations (UN) staff expats group, they are actually diplomats as well and live in their own “club” although they have to get in touch with locals due to their line of duty. It’s ironic how Kapuscinki in his Soccer War book described them as pretentious, look on everything and everyone from a global perspective, that makes it difficult to settle everyday human problems – in certain cases, I found it could be true. Perhaps World Bank or other International Organizations expats shared similar characteristics.
Anyway, nice piece of article, some categories, surprisingly almost possible to be applied to the expats group in the country where I live now – #1 (without home security guard but for sure they do have home security alarm and au pair/nannies and socialize only among themselves), #3 and #5..
“Despite the self deluding aspirations of some Bule expounding thier views down Jalan Jaksa”
The funniest thing about this is that you-know-who holds himself to be some kind of paragon of expat purity, “better” than the “toffs” he derides drinking in Kemang or Mega Kuningan, when really he is redolent of the worst kind of riff-raff the country takes in. I’d guess that Jaksa and its louse-ridden (yes, Mr “XXXXX”, despite your protests to the contrary, the bules and a deal of the locals there have hygiene issues) would account for something like 0.5 percent of the expat community as a whole. Any schlep can come here and teach, having a western passport and a pulse is about the only pre-requisite and for the most part they are part of the great language school scam that sees aspirational middle-class Indonesians handing over obscene sums in the hope that these ill-prepared and so-called teachers can hand them a better life through learning English. Most of this crowd are sex cases, alcoholics and/or drug abusers who, if they graduate beyond the blok M/Jaksa/Stadium circuit may eventually settle down in some West Jakarta kampung with an ayam who had aspirations of marrying something higher up the orang rinso totem, but instead got stuck with the bule equivalent of an ojek driver. Funnier still, said peasant may get themselves a ‘blawg’ where you poor your ill-informed, bigoted and booze-fueled rants about a range of subjects that may be of interest to a brain-damaged gibbon with a penchant for hard-right politics if only the author could write. Throw the phrases islamofascist, homosexualist, left-lib, disgusting pervert, ordinary conservative folk and way back when into a barrel, shake it and come up with a new “blawg post” each day, more dull than the last. He may even then finally, in a vain attempt to think his pathetic existence means something, self-publish a range of novellas in the sex-pat genre that not even the hokiest of local publishing houses would touch for fear of being seen as the promoters of such fanciful muck. Cripes, even the bag man of Jaksa himself has the decency to collate compendiums of the nation’s history, rather than cheap titillation posing as some kind of latter-day Hunter S Thompson tome. Oh yeah, and when challenged to defend the inconsistencies abundant in his scribblings and why he upholds the notion of ‘freedom’ so narrowly, said clown will revert to banning you from his comments page. In short, what a pillock.
Hi Jayo..I wonder to whom you are talking about
I did one reference to the person lets make it fun and let the readers decide who it is
I give up. I haven’t got a clue whom you’re talking about. It could be Santa Claus for all I know…
Yo, Jayo, Indonesia is in chaotic situation and it would be really appreciated if the expat “blawgerz” can put their objective views and constructive critiques on the issues about Indonesia in their blogs, not merely the throwing of terms like islamofascist, islamist bigots, disgusting perverts, pinkos, thugs, islamonazis…(and some other hate terms censored for children. Don’t try this at home!
). That isn’t helping. The world is full of too much hatred already.
Aprianti,
To be fair I think the the person in question provides a fairly valuable service by highlighting that ignorance, intolerance and a lack of over all commonsense is not restricted to or by any particular ethnic group or religion. No one takes people like that too seriously too easily exposed as factually flawed as just another shrill screaming for attention.
Taking religion and/or nationalism to justify your own cowardice and insecurity remains the last refuge of the dregs of our society. Unfortunately in Indonesia too many people are served by allowing the terminally ignorant to create mayhem.
To be fair I find a lot of good stuff in his blog,
However, ignorance, intolerance and lack of commonsense are the products of the broken system and cannot be fixed by name calling person by person or group by group individually. The usage of hate terms might be good to attract an attention in the beginning, but on the other hand it lessens the objectivity of presenting the issue and hinders the good message from being delivered (or even taken seriously). That’s a shame, methinks.